Journal | January 3, 2024
Cabernet Franc | Vine Age
There is a certain mystery and allure about wines made from old vines. While it is possible that vines can live and produce for over a hundred years, I would like to address a more modest “old”. Winegrowers observe a change in both vines and wines as a vineyard block matures. This shift is first noticeable when the vines enter their second decade and then again when they reach their twenties. The reason has to do with root development. It takes time for a vine’s roots to spread and more importantly dig deep. Deep roots have more consistent access to minerals and moisture.
This evolution is especially apparent with Cabernet Franc which has a propensity to ripen its grapes unevenly. This is problematic as the wine can have both overripe (pruney) and underripe (vegetal) characteristics. When vines are young their growth habit is uneven. The same vine produces shoots that are vigorous and others that are stunted. Additionally some clusters flower early and others lag behind. These are the vine’s teenage years. They seem strong and mature, but they don’t always act that way.
Climate change has exacerbated the problem. Rainfall has become increasingly erratic with long dry periods followed by soaking rains. A young vine with superficial roots can quickly become drought stressed. If heavy rains occur near harvest, young vines will quickly take up water from the saturated top soil. This water is then transported to the grapes diluting flavors and concentration. Old vines weather these fluctuations much better.
Young vines ripen their grapes quickly, sometimes as much as ten days before older vines. They also produce a lot of sugar which, with a little help of yeast, becomes alcohol. Their wines tend to be high alcohol and varietal (i.e. tastes like Cabernet Franc). The wines show well when young, but often don’t age well. These are rock and roll wines: fun to dance to.
Old vines ripen their crop slowly and consistently. They are capable of producing wines of balance, complexity and great length. These wines express terroir but need time to do so. Because of their complexity and restraint, they are best enjoyed over time in a quiet contemplative setting.
Older vines.
Stressed younger vines.
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Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Hardscrabble Journal: January 3, 2024