Next Step | Fiano | 2 of 4

Part two of a four-part series.

In Situ: Visits

Irpinia: A diamond in the rough

Winegrowers have a passion for sharing information and ideas. Internships, exchanges, technical visits, and random emails are all part of our profession. This is an extension of our farming roots. Farmers are introverts by nature and live a fairly isolated life by design. But when the occasion arises, we enjoy sharing our experiences with others who work the same way. Over the years I’ve sometimes been received at other vineyards with an air of skepticism, but once we talk the talk, and it becomes apparent that we do the same work and have the same struggles and rewards, a bond quickly forms.

In Situ is Latin for “in the original place.” Terroirs and cultures are unique and cannot be copied. Technology cannot capture spirit. The mission of our trip to Irpinia was to understand the viticulture and winemaking nuances of the Fiano grape. We learned much more.

Visit Logistics

In arranging appointments for technical visits, I usually rely on a loose web of colleagues and partners. Letters (emails) of introduction establish our seriousness and credentials.  But this visit was challenging. Irpinia is relatively unknown in the US, and industry partners were scarce. Early attempts at making “cold call” arrangements were frustrating.  However, my experience with the wine industry is that there are passionate people ready to help.

With only limited success in setting up appointments, I had to take a different strategy. Back labels carry the name of the importer. One bottle of Fiano that I particularly liked listed the name Wine Drops Imports. As fate would have it, the owner of Wine Drops is proudly from Irpinia. Marco Martire insisted on setting our itinerary and lodging, and even provided a guide/translator. Our visit agenda went from tenuous to jam-packed. Thank you, Marco.

We flew into Naples with a tight three-day agenda.

Lay of the Land

Irpinia’s landscape has some similarities to our Blue Ridge, but the mountains are less weather-worn. Ancient villages are located on inaccessible hill tops for protection. Until recently farming was mainly subsistence. This expresses itself in a patchwork of irregular fields dotting the landscape, rather than the monoculture of vines that one sees in other winegrowing regions. Olive groves, hazelnuts, chestnuts, plowed fields, and vineyards compete for space. And a grower’s time.

The art of everyday life

In Irpinia wine is important, but it is only part of a complex and heritage-based life. It quickly became apparent to Jonathan and I that we were getting an intimate insight into a rural culture that is becoming increasingly rare in today’s world. This was not just a technical visit. In order to fully appreciate a wine, one needs to understand not only the wine-growing and wine-making technology, but also the region’s history and culture.

Our visits reflected this. We were received by families, often three generations. The younger generation usually translated for us. The vineyards were scattered, as they were often a patchwork of plots handed down from both sides of the family. Tastings included breads, cheeses, and cured meats, sometimes made at home from pigs raised on the farm. On more than one occasion, we were invited to have lunch with family members at their house. Most of the meal was grown on the farm.

The concept of terroir includes not only the soils, slopes, and climate. It also includes the people, their culture, and their history. We experienced an ancient life adapting to a modern world. The commercialization of wine has now made inroads. Irpinia’s challenge will be how to balance lifestyle with wine style.

Once back home I was inspired to revisit the chronicles of an American ambassador to France who arranged similar visits in the late 1700s. Jefferson traveled to Burgundy, Rhone, Bordeaux, and Piedmonte. His notes on vines, wines, and culture are well documented. These experiences led to the planting of vineyards at Monticello.

Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Hardscrabble Journal: December 12, 2024