Next Step | Fiano | 3 of 4

Part three of a four-part series.

The Vines

We traveled to Irpinia to get a better understanding of the nuances of the Fiano grape in the vineyard. There is no substitute for being there. Seeing the growth characteristics of the vines, literally feeling the soil, and walking the slopes can’t happen on the web. Broken language conversations become more fluid when pointing, gesturing, and touching the vines.
 
This is why we travel. At home tasting the wines and researching winemaking is easy, but there is little information about the vines and vineyard management. Before we commit to establishing a sizable planting of a new variety, being aware of certain characteristics can determine its long-term success.

Some things we learned about Fiano:

• North facing slopes are good. Climate change has all but ended the notion that south is best (at least for white grapes). A cooler north slope slows ripening and conserves acidity. At Hardscrabble we have a northeast slope that is ideal, but an old vineyard on this site was recently removed. The land will need to fallow (rest) for a few years. Our Fiano planting will have to wait until spring 2027.

• Fiano is very vigorous and needs space. The spacing between vines in our experimental planting is three feet, which is too crowded. They’ll need to be planted at least four feet apart.

• Fiano only produces bunches on distal shoots. Cane pruning and meticulous suckering or blind budding is needed to achieve a balanced crop.

• Growers in Irpinia do not practice leaf removal around the clusters. The bunches are rot resistant, so they can handle shade. Direct sun can reduce a wine’s freshness and mineral characteristics. Additionally clusters are positioned far up into the canopy (versus hanging low). This will impact how the trellis wires are arranged.

• The window for ripening is wide. It seems that because Fiano ripens slowly and is rot resistant, the decision to pick is not a forced one (no need to “panic” pick before the rain). If true, this would be a significant logistical advantage.

• Potential yields are about average. Large yields are not possible due to Fiano’s tendency to only fruit on the distal shoots. My yield conversions took some higher math, as quintelli per hectare needed to be converted to tons per acre.

The landscape of Irpinia is rugged and isolated. Its vineyards are scattered and diverse. This presents problems for any mechanization. Labor beyond family members is increasingly hard to find as many residents have migrated.  This may preclude any significant growth for the region.
 
Irpinian winegrowers are too busy to worry about certifications related to farming practices. When asked about buzz terms like “organic” or “biodynamic,” their response is a shy smile. They see no need to document or certify their choices or lifestyle. I couldn’t agree more.

Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Hardscrabble Journal: December 19, 2024