Journal | October 14, 2023
2023 Reds: Power and Finesse?
Most of the 2023 red wines are now finished fermenting. This means that the yeasts have done their job and the wines are dry (no remaining sweetness). However, the wine remains soaking on skins and seeds. This period is referred to as post fermentation maceration. The wine continues to extract tannins and flavors from the skins and seeds. An important winemaking decision is to when to drain the wine into barrel or tank and then press out the remaining wine from the skins.
If the wine is drained prematurely it will not have taken full advantage of the potential depth, length and complexity that a full maceration will contribute. If drained too late the wine could be bitter and dried out.
Each variety, vineyard block, and vintage will extract at a different rate and quality level. Much depends on the maturity of the skins and seeds at harvest. So how does one decide when to pull the trigger?
We taste.
Every two days Jonathan pulls two small samples from each fermenter. In Linden’s library we then taste and take notes on each lot. But in each case, we are comparatively tasting two wines: one is today’s sample the other is the sample taken two days ago. We are tasting for the progression of extraction. Is the wine gaining length, structure, mid-palate weight and complexity, or is it on the verge of drying out from too much contact with the skins and seeds and losing harmony and finesse?
The final decision often comes after some healthy debate and re-tasting. No single lot will be bottled on its own. Each is a contributor to a final blend. Over the years we have learned that Cabernet Sauvignon has the highest quality tannins and can handle maximum extraction. We have to be more conservative with Merlot and Cabernet Franc as over extraction can lead to a hardness and green character to the final wine.
With a great vintage like 2023 it will be tempting to go for broke with all the wines as we are dealing with some outstanding material. But appropriate restraint will lead to both power and finesse which is the only path to a truly great wine.
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Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Journal/Field Notes: October 14, 2023