Journal | December 4, 2019
First Notes on the 2019 wines
This week we tasted the 2019 wines from barrel in the cellar. This is not the most ideal setting as it is better to draw the wines in the morning and then taste them at correct temperature in the library where in fact, we are also warm. But tasting in the cellar is faster and can give us a good overview of what to expect as the wines settle down during their winter slumber. The wines remain somewhat yeasty, cloudy and gassy (with an occasional barrel exhibiting some sulfur funk). That said, we get our first glimpse of the character of the vintage.
The 2019 whites strength is their balance and poise. Acidities are only moderate due to the heat experienced in August and September. Old vines retained more verve and density than young vines. Sauvignon Blanc was a standout. Riesling and Petit Manseng were not evolved enough to show us a path. Boisseau Viognier demonstrated that it thrives in heat. Chardonnay from old vines already showed finesse and precision, but the young vine barrels were disjointed with a high level of phenols (“white wine tannins’), which reminded us that their skins were unusually thick (phenols come from the skins).
The reds were more difficult to taste as they were less evolved. Tasting tannic red wines in a cold cellar has its disadvantages. The Boisseau wines were most enticing as this vineyard produces wines with lots of volume, alcohol and weight. Its tannins are also less assertive, making the wines very hedonistic, even at this stage.
Hardscrabble and Avenius reds were showing their usual restraint. Unconventionally, the press wines were well received. This was not a surprise as our extraction strategies called for less intervention during fermentation due to concerns of bitterness in the skins. The resulting free-drained wines had less skin influence, leaving more of the “goodies” in the skins. When pressed, the skins released some surprisingly high quality tannins. The resulting wines are very special.
In January we will taste every barrel (sample) under more controlled conditions (our warm library). At that time we’ll take more detailed notes and begin evaluating for subsequent blending trials.
Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Journal: December 4, 2019