Journal | January 20, 2020
Hardscrabble Journal
Blending Trials Part 1: Getting Acquainted
Every January we begin the process of determining the best blend for each of Linden’s red wines. In this case, the 2019 vintage. We are a bit rusty this year, as we did not do this last January. We produced no red wines in 2018 due to weather. Conversely, this year we have lots of good material to work with.
Over the years we have developed a tasting regime that has worked. It should be noted that all the decisions are made by tasting. There are no lab tests or chemistry involved. Counter intuitively, aroma and flavor are discounted in our decision-making. How the wine smells and tastes will change dramatically over the next three years, which is about when the wines will be released. This is where we simply trust the wine and its terroir to unfold personality. We stay out of the way.
Our job is to put together a blend based on three attributes. First, the wine has to have a seamlessness of balance and harmony. Texture, structure and mouth feel would be another way of describing this. This is more about tactile sensations that develop linearly, unlike aromas and flavors, which change dynamically. Second, we are also looking for a reflection of typicity. Our responsibility is to capture the profile of each vineyard site (Boisseau, Avenius, and Hardscrabble). Finally comes ageability. Wines are at their most complex and compelling when they age. Acidity and tannins will keep the wine fresh as the aromas and flavors evolve and become more complex.
We always start this process in January. The wines have settled down and lost most of their gassiness (natural entrained CO2 resulting from fermentation). Our memory of harvest is still fresh. This is important as those observations and perceptions of the grapes, skins and seeds can reinforce what we taste in the wines months later.
January is our slow month with nothing in the vineyard or cellar calling for immediate attention. This gives us the luxury of time. Patience and focus is critical during the blending trial sessions. Once spring arrives the decisions have to be made and the physical blending executed. Then we turn full attention to the vines.
Last week we held our “get acquainted” sessions. Every day at 3:00 we systematically tasted samples drawn from each of the 2019 red barrels. A score sheet is used, but not to rate the wines as complete individuals, but rather to record their merits and deficiencies: what attributes can each one bring to the blend. 2019 harvest was hot and dry. There is a lot of good material to work with which usually makes the blending decision making less straightforward and more difficult. A good problem to have.
This week we will begin trial blends.
Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Journal: January 20, 2020