Hardscrabble Journal

Complexity

This week we tasted through all of the 2017 Linden red wines. The word complexity became routine in our descriptions. While this is considered a very good word in our world, just what does it mean?

It means that every time you smell or taste the wine you get something different. The wines seem elusive and changing. We often debate whether it is the wine, or our perception of the wine that does the changing. The aromas of the 2017 reds have the perfume and lift of a much older wine. This is uncommon and exciting, but also a bit scary. Will the wine peak too early? 

Flavors change also. Usually a young wine is fruit driven and “primary”, meaning that additional earthy, balsam flavors will only emerge with years of bottle aging. But the 2017s already have lots of fresh herbs, smoky, even graphite notes.

Then there is texture. With young wines there is often a distinct beginning, middle and finish. Time eventually melds them together. The 2017s are pretty seamless already. There is an interplay of fresh acidity and supple, but firm tannins that dances on the palate.

Just in case you were wondering, I really, really like the 2017 reds.

• Subscribe to Linden Updates for the latest vineyard and cellar information.

Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Journal: April 18, 2020