Hardscrabble Journal

Avenius Chardonnay – The Wine | Part 3

The making of Avenius Chardonnay is a case study of experience and trust. In the early years all Linden’s wines were made similarly. As each vineyard site started to express its personality, winemaking practices adapted.

We found that Avenius Chardonnay showed great purity of minerals and a delicate, cleansing freshness. If the grapes got too ripe all this was lost. If new oak was used, it dominated and smothered the wine.

For many years there were concerns about the slowness of fermentations. Other wines fermented at a much faster and stronger rate. They finished their fermentation after three or four weeks. Avenius would go on sometimes for months. At first, we would warm, stir, and aerate the fermenting wine in order to stimulate the yeasts. Eventually we simply let Avenius be Avenius. While admittedly stressful to the winemakers, in the end, the wine always fermented to dryness. 

We found that Avenius Chardonnay likes old, big barrels. Old, so that there is little influence of oak flavor (those flavors disappeared years ago being absorbed by previous wines). Avenius also does well in puncheons, which are barrels of 500 liters vs. the standard 228 liters. This reduces the amount of oxygen absorbed by the wine during aging. It makes a more reductive style which means the wine can be tight, closed and disjointed while other wines unfold and harmonize.

Time rewards Avenius Chardonnay. This wine follows the Burgundian style of slow development with bottle aging. The wine retains its signature freshness while gaining great complexity and harmony. Several years ago the 2002 vintage was poured for a convention of wine professionals. The then 15-year-old wine is still talked about. Yes, white wines can age exceptionally well. But it depends on the vineyard and the intent of the winegrower.

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Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Journal: May 3, 2020