Vintage Notes: 2022 Whites

Every January we conduct our first “get acquainted” tasting of the new vintage of white wines. Prior to January the wines are often too cloudy and gassy to give them a proper review. 2022 is in contention to be one of our favorite white vintages. The wines have a core, concentration and length that can only occur under certain September weather conditions. Over the years we have found that white wines shine under very different ripening weather than red wines. Warm, sunny days are advantageous for big, showy red wines. But cool, and even occasionally cloudy and wet conditions often enhance white wine minerality, purity and terroir expression.  2022 had all of the above. The timing of picking was critical to bring out the best of each vineyard block. In that regard, we nailed it.

The Chardonnays have the density, minerality and crystalline acidity that we adore in white wines. While there are certainly soil, slope, vine age and clonal differences showing in each barrel, these are wines that reflect the vintage. A big rain in early September was not welcome, but the associated berry dilution delayed harvest as we waited for the vine to slowly export the water. As September progressed, the nighttime temperatures cooled and ripening slowed. We sat on our hands and patiently waited. When the Chardonnay picking began it continued in earnest through the rest of September under sunny skies.

Sauvignon Blanc was trickier.  That early September rain had more of an impact. This is because Sauvignon Blanc ripens early and the grapes are more fragile. Rain close to ripening can cause rot. And it did in the younger Hardscrabble vineyard. We reacted at first by picking before the rot had a chance to spread. But then we stopped as we found that the juice was thin and tart. As we waited for more ripening, more rot set in. That harvest was a grueling, slow slog as we meticulously sorted out all rotten berries or clusters while picking.

In tasting the two different harvests of Hardscrabble Sauvignon Blanc it became obvious that the wait was worth it. The barrels from the first picking are lean and bracing, but the later picking has wonderful texture and concentration with balanced acidity.

The 27-year-old Avenius Sauvignon Blanc vines shrugged off the rains and ripened effortlessly with almost no rot. This further confirms our observations of the advantages of old vines over young vines. Once those roots are able to grow deep they are better at regulating differences in soil moisture from a big rain. The 2022 Avenius Sauvignon Blanc is a classic.

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Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Journal: January 21, 2023