Linden Update | Week of April 26, 2020
Chardonnay vines | April 24, 2020
Slow Motion Spring
We are struggling with this cold spring. Don’t get me wrong, there are no major problems. In fact we have been very fortunate, having missed any damaging frosts. But vine growth has been painfully slow and we are anxious to get this season going.
We know that spring will break soon, and when it does, there will be an intense amount of work to do. Mowing, weeding, shoot thinning will all be beckoning.
Regardless, the calendar suggests that the days should be warm. The wines we enjoy now ought to be zippy and refreshing. We will let optimism prevail and present Linden’s first white wine sampler offering.
Hardscrabble Chardonnay: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
Raid the Cellar | Hardscrabble Chardonnay
Frankly, the Chardonnay grape has little character. It is exactly this varietal neutrality that allows it to define terroir and vintages better than any other grape variety. Chardonnay wines may be ubiquitous, but the best demonstrate textural complexity that is arguably unmatched by any other grape.
Chardonnay was the driving force behind the purchase of this hardscrabble farm in 1983. The soils, elevation, and aspect turned out to be the sweet spot I had hoped for. Over thirty vintages later we’ve learned that the best way to make Chardonnay is to get out of the way. We can count on Hardscrabble Chardonnay to show a consistent distinctiveness of terroir, but with an appropriate uniqueness to each vintage.
This week’s sampler selection is a vertical of four vintages of Hardscrabble Chardonnay. We’ve included a few tasting notes, but perhaps you can get a better feel for the vintage character by the recommended food pairings. Especially since many of us now seem to have more time to cook.
You can find much more depth about the origins and philosophy of Hardscrabble Chardonnay in recent posts in the Hardscrabble Journal.
Hardscrabble Chardonnay: 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
2014
Chablis-like. Flint, saline, sinewy lean. Starting to show age complexity. Its bracing acidity would pair well with very simply prepared fresh Gulf shrimp.
2015
Old World and old school with textural weight and refreshing acidity. I couldn’t help dusting off one of my Mom’s classic French cookbooks from the 1960s. I confess that I do not remember the Pike Blanquette where she scribbled substitution notes. I was, however, drawn to the Sweetbreads in Cream Sauce as a pairing with the classic 2015 Hardscrabble Chardonnay.
2016
This warm vintage is more “New World” in style. It is generous and fruit driven. Pear, melon, and vanilla. It cries for heartier dishes such as a roasted chicken with herbs and lemon. I would open this one first, before spring catches up.
2017
This not-yet-released vintage already shows Hardscrabble’s signature stony, floral, and green apple aromas. It has a density and precision that reflects the cool, dry September harvest. This wine will age and evolve over the next decade. In its youth it would be best paired with poached salmon. With some bottle age, grilled salmon steaks would be perfect.
At this time purchases will be limited to only one sampler per customer.
However, at the end of Linden’s sampler campaign, for a short period of time, all of the 2017 wines will be available for purchase in unrestricted quantities.
Linden’s Hardscrabble Chardonnay sampler will be available for $168.
Other wines can be included to qualify for a 12-bottle discount of 10%.
We cannot accommodate pickups at this time as we feel an obligation to comply with CDC social distancing guidelines. Believe me we will be very glad to see you at the proper time.
Linden Direct
Linden now ships wine via UPS to the District of Columbia in addition to Virginia. We are offering free shipping and handling during our closure.
We shamelessly remain stubborn Luddites, so you’ll have to call in your order the old-fashioned way: 540-364-1997. Shari is working in her vineyard in the morning but in the office by the phone on weekday afternoons from 12:30 to 5:00. Otherwise please leave a message.
Vineyard Isolation | 2020
The seasons and the vines are not on lockdown. We continue to farm. We cannot receive visitors, but we can write. Daily entries in Hardscrabble Journal and weekly updates sent by email are our only way of keeping you informed.
See all of Jim's posts on life and work since March 16, 2020 in Vineyard Isolation | 2020.
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Linden Vineyards / Learn More / Latest at Linden | Update: Week of April 26, 2020